Cathedral skies

I plan to see the Basilica today. Walk confidently in the direction of the ‘hills’ through downtown and across to the west. Everything starts to look a bit the same. The rows of 6-storey apartments come in one of two styles - balconied and pretty, or plain and brutalist (made worse with the addition of AC units mounted to the front of every apartment). Tara and Nick have told me about the Franco era of military dictatorship and repression from the end of the Spanish Civil War in 1939, and ending in 1975. While the civil war may have ended, Madrid continued to suffer bombing and political ‘cleansing’ throughout this period and the shadow of that time remains clear to see in the city.

Today, Madrid has been restored to a beautiful capital city. People look happy, by and large. The streets are clean, the gardens are manicured. Unemployment figures are improving. Madrid is the business hub of Spain and home to many multi-national corporations’ European arms. There are no empty shops, unlike home, and I have not seen much homelessness on the streets (but there is some). 

With a population of about 3.5 million in the city alone (7 million I think in the whole region) Madrid can afford to spend some of its money on beautifying the city. I am impressed with the mix of housing and shops without it feeling too forced. The public transport networks are amazing (and invisible, the metro is underground). The city is entirely walkable, like Wellington. Everywhere I have wanted to go has been a 20 minute walk away. I can see how Tara and Nick have fallen in love with Madrid.

I reach the Basilica but it is closed. Fortunately, across the road is a Cathedral that looks even more impressive from the outside. I go in and, because it’s 10am and a Monday, I am one of the only people there. The peace inside is striking.

The Cripta de la Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almudena is heavily marbled and has a central altar, but also many smaller private worship zones in the wings. Each one is exquisitely decorated with gold, mosaic tiles, marble, stained glass and statues. I take a while to take it all in. It is not an old Cathedral. It has been built over the last 120 years or so in gothic revival style. There are many similarities to Catholic churches back home, and probably the world over. The scent of frankincense is very comforting. I was allowed to take photos so here are some for you.

From there, I walk to the Palace (Palacio Real). It’s pretty and large, but I don’t linger too long. It’s the palace gardens I have come for. I take a long walk through the trees and rose gardens. There are so many workers busy with their Spring jobs. There are some nice views across the more suburban areas and I’m on a bit of a hill so I can capture some views with a longer focus of vision, which my eyes sorely need.

I stop at Burger King on my way back, such is my hunger and craving for something familiar. I have been homesick but it’s getting easier. I get a phone call from mum and that helps.

Later, Tara and I have some more heart to hearts, which is part of why I came here - to spend quality time with friends. We have social plans for tomorrow night, some board games with some of her colleagues. It will also be my last day in Madrid, so I am looking forward to discovering another part of the city, then packing up my little blue suitcase for an early flight to Rome.